Tutorial - Foundation Piecing

Well next month there are three of my favourite foundation pieced blocks and so I thought a tutorial wouldn't hurt..... well that was until I tried to make one and discovered that it wasn't as easy to explain as it was to do. So I have done some surfing and hope this helps you. 
I have drawn the foundation papers for the first two videos below if you wish to try them first. 

Gourmet Quilter's Tree

Download them here. I have drawn them in two sizes. The larger size is easier.

When beginning to foundation piece cut your fabric with 1/2in seam allowance on all sides. Even when you are experienced 1/2in is useful if you are covering triangular or strange shaped areas.

Try this video by the Gourmet Quilter first as the shapes are easier as are the sizes.

This is a great video but watch it after the first video.

Connecting Threads

This tutorial is very well presented by Karen Johnson, of Connecting Threads. She teaches you the most common version of Foundation Piecing - usually known as Paper Piecing. Achieve perfect points on tiny blocks with just a few easy tips. Karen recommends the 'add a Quarter Tool' however for the miniature blocks the 'add an eighth ruler is better. Add a quarter is too big for our blocks.

One thing that I would advise you to do those is to NOT trim all of your seam allowances ahead of time. If the fabric slips before you sew it on then you may not have enough seam allowance to fully cover the section where it is needed.

Karen recommends you 
1. you drop your stitch length. She doesn't say how much to drop it but I usually recomend you only drop it by two notches. If you make the stitch length too small it makes it difficult if you make a mistake and need to unpick.
2. change your needle to a heavier or larger size, say size 10. This is to make the perforations larger and so it will make removing the paper later.
3. if you make a mistake and need to unpick a seam use Scotch Magic Tape to cover the mistaken perforated line
4. pressing or at least finger pressing each seam before adding the next seam.

Another video you may like to check out is from  Fons & Porter

New wash away EPP papers

Well while cruising through yesterday's Quiltmaker's 100 Blocks featured designers I came across what looks like an amazing product...   Hugs ‘n Kisses Appliqué paper which is a 50% soluble natural paper with glue on one side. You can print on it using a bubble jet printer, iron the paper onto your fabric, baste as per normal and whip stitch and then wash away. Helen has the papers precut in certain sizes but also explains about using the paper for printing your own templates.

Check out the post here for a good tutorial, with plenty of photos on how to use it and check out here if you want to buy any.  

Looks like a great product which I will have to try..... will let you know how I go with it... wonder if it is good enough to convert me from regular piecing to an EPP fanatic:)

Links for Applique

Well next month we have the first of very few applique blocks. If you are like myself, then applique is not a method that you enjoy. Most of the applique blocks are made using machine buttonhole, unless they are really simple blocks, like Blue Moon in Collection 34, which is made using needle-turn applique. 
I know there are many more ways of doing applique other just than machine buttonhole and so have been doing a little trawling looking for links


This looks like a good post about hand applique with detailed pictures to accompany the steps.

Misty Trees, towards the end of this video they discuss preparation for raw edge applique

The above video leads onto machine applique by same person

Freezer Paper Technique by Connecting Threads
This video teaches you how to do freezer paper applique for quilts and other projects. For this method, you will need household freezer paper, a mini iron, and matching or monofilament thread. 
It is by Vicki Bellino of Bloom Creek, exclusively for www.connectingthreads.com and discusses both hand and machine applique and thread and needle choice

For those of you who don't like to watch youtube videos here is a link to sew4home which discusses a few different types of machine applique, stitch variations plus suitable threads and the best feet etc to use.  

Sew like My Mom also takes you through the machine button hole method with step by step photos. A long and detailed post worth reading for anyone who is new to this.

As a final comment if you want fantastic applique block you could try what I did in one block.... I asked Merelyn Pearce to make it for me. Merelyn lives just down the road from me and happily made the block. It was my good luck charm, or good luck block. For those who don't know about Merelyn she has won Best of Australia five times at least and does some of the tiniest applique you could ever hope to see.... actually it is so tiny you can't see her stitches at all.

NYE Project - Amish Puzzle Ball

To celebrate the new year I thought that I would clear out one of my UFOs.  It was going to be my photograph for the WIP for next Saturday's Scatterday but it didn't really qualify as a WIP as there has been almost no progress on it for a few year. I have included here step by step photos for anyone wanting to make their own.   It is a lovely take anywhere hand project.

	The first picture shows you how to make your own templates. 1. Draw two circles the desired size. For a pincushion I would suggest 4in circles , 2in radius, as a starting point and for a child's playball 6in or 8in if you wish to put a bell inside. 2. Draw two lines cutting each circle into four equal sections.  3. Overlap the two circles so that the quarter marking points meet and draw in the arcs along the edge of the circle. 4. These are your templates - the circle is your base, while the little arc is the leaves.

You will need six circles and twelve leaves. Trace around the templates and then add seam allowance before cutting out the fabric. You will need to make six of the following sets.

1. Fold the circles into quarters and mark the quarter points on the circle edge. 2. Match the end points of the leaves to the points as shown and stitch in place, reinforcing at all of the corners. Take care - do not start at the end points as this will make it a weak point.  Start a short way from the corner, stitch out to the corner, turn around stitch to next corner, reverse for short distance and then finish with a double stitch.

Now this part looks easy and it is easy by the time you get to your third or fourth set so hang in there when you first start. If you look back at the photo above you will see that each leaf has one 'free' side and also that half of the circle is unattached...so guess what.  For this step all you need to do is sew those sides together.  When you work out how to lie it flat like I have done here you will find it's not too bad.  So go for it. After you have finished sewing it together clip a small hole along the middle edge. This hole is used to first turn the whole thing inside out and secondly to stuff the section. After stuffing sew the hole closed.

	I forgot to take a photo of the next stage but the missing photo simply shows you what one section looks like. Once you have turned it inside out , stuffed it and closed the hole you then need to stitch alone the centre seam to define the two quarter sections.
	In the photos beside there are two sections which I have sewn together along the adjoining seam.  If you look at the lower photo you  see the front on view of this part of the ball.  Make one of these by sewing together two leaf/circle sections, this seam is the horizontal one which is slightly more defined.

You will need to make two of these sections. Take two of the circle/leaf sections and sew them together along that central seam which you stitched earlier to separate the original piece into two parts. You need a longer needle for this as the puffy leaf sections keep getting in the way.

In this photo you can see all three parts which need to be made. The top circle is what you made in the step above. The two bottom sections show the top and bottom view of the same thing. Note you need strong seams to hold all of the pieces together, quilting or furniture thread would be perfect for this. If you don't mind the colour dental floss is also a good alternative.

Now comes the real fun, you will definitely need a strong needle, thread and thimble for the following sections. Using the top ring section and one of the four leaf clover sections line them up as shown opposite. You now need to sew together the two parts at the four matching end points.  Make sure this is done securely as these stitches will be the only thing holding the two parts together. Although the average quilter/sewer isn't going to be rough with her new toy if you have made a child's ball then it will probably take quite a pounding.

	You have the choice here.  When I first started to make these balls I would sew two sections together firstly and then add the third section.  Later though I started to sew all three sections together at the one time.  The choice is your own.

Viola here is your finished pin cushion. Don't forget to send me a picture as I love to see various colour choices. Also if you work out how to add a bell let me know how.  Is it easy to secure the centre hole so that it doesn't escape into the hands of littlies.                    Happy New Year.

Cutting long lengths using two rulers

	Placing the two rulers side by side, slide them so that they pass through the corner points of the square as shown.
Using the rotary cutter carefully cut along the diagonal until you have passed the halfway point
	With your right hand hold the smaller ruler in place as you slide the long ruler beside it until it passes the upper corner.
Discard the smaller right hand ruler and complete the diagonal cut through the top corner.

How to cut large squares

OK have had a few friends ask me how to cut large squares if you don't have a massive square ruler. Now this method is not the best if you need absolute accuracy.... but when in patchwork have we needed absolute accuracy :)

This is actually the second cut but I can't find a photo of the first cut.  As the principle is the same you can follow from this. Place your ruler onto your fabric near the edge, lining up the edge of the ruler with one of the line markings on the mat. Hold the ruler down firmly and while pressing down cut away from yourself.  For a more accurate cut, and to lessen the chance of the ruler slipping,move your hand along the ruler when making long cuts.  Only cut 6-8 inches before moving your hand along the ruler.

If you have a large enough mat, for the fabric to lie completely on it, then turn the mat so that the cut edge now lies along the side closest to your body.  If your mat is smaller, then simply turn the fabric lining up the cut edge with one of the marked lines on the mat. Line up the cut edge of the fabric with one of the lines on your ruler.  Slide the ruler so that the edge is near the edge of the fabric and lies along one of the marked lines on your mat.  Taking care cut away the excess fabric. Rotate the fabric and mat again. and repeat the above steps.